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The Charm of Charlevoix, Quebec

posted in: North America  |  posted by: Ian Harrison on December 15, 2008  |  No Comments

People in the province of Quebec, Canada, from cosmopolitan Montreal to the Inuit community of Kuujjuaq in the vast north, grow up with one sure fact about Charlevoix in mind. Even if they have never been there, they know that the 6,000 kilometer square area of the province is one of peerless beauty. Since the first colony at Baie Saint-Paul in 1678 and Jesuit priest Fran?ois Xavier de Charlevoix’s subsequent explorations in the early 18th century, the region has been the envy of Quebec.

Baie Saint-Paul, Charlevoix

In the second half of the 18th century, nobles from Scotland came to Charlevoix and taken by the pristine landscape, cast what in essence were the first resorts in Canada. So began a long history of tourism and hospitality, more than two hundred years after Jacques Cartier first made a cursory tour of the area in 1535.

Saguenay fjord, Charlevoix

Although Charlevoix has a slew of old mills and quaint village landmarks that date back to the colonial era, they pale in comparison to the age of the area’s most notable feature. Some 350 million years ago, a colossal meteorite struck the area with such force that even today, there is a discernible mark left at Mont des ?boulements. As you descend en route to scenic Baie Saint-Paul, the base of the meteoric crater is apparent. A chain of cataclysmic earthquakes in the 17th century also had a paramount impact on the geography of Charlevoix. Out of nature’s destruction however, has emerged a veritable paradise.

Baie Saint-Paul, Charlevoix

Fertile land for forestry and agriculture as well. One of the lynchpins of tourism to the area is a phenomenal array of farms that provide Charlevoix chefs, restaurants and shops with produce and goods that people drive days to procure. From lamb to cheese, wild boar to foie gras, Charlevoix proves that the province of Quebec is without a doubt, the cradle of gastronomy in Canada, if not North America. To get a sense of the area’s bounty, you must drive on the secondary roads between Baie Saint-Paul and La Malbaie. Authentic vistas of local life will reward those intrepid enough to chart the course.

Charlevoix under a blanket of snow

Hotels, from the grand Manoir Richelieu, a major attraction whether or not you rent a room, to convivial bed and breakfasts, inns and auberges, form a key component of Charlevoix’s charm. Many of the guesthouses in the area are replete with history and architecture almost nonexistent in other parts of the province. Tucked away in idyllic corners of Charlevoix, these hospitable homes offer snug security on autumn and winter nights, when the region hibernates under a beautiful bed of colorful leaves and soft, powdery snow.

Typical country road in Charlevoix

Of course, the warm spring and summer months are particularly popular, with more international visitors than at any other time. June and July are perhaps the best time to enjoy the splendor of the Saint-Lawrence River and the Laurentian Mountains, which together, form a UNESCO biosphere reserve in the heart of Charlevoix.

Charlevoix in autumn

From whales to boreal forest fauna and flora, the region offers nature lovers much to discover. The excellent Saguenay-Saint-Laurent Marine Park covers over 1,000 kilometers square and includes the spectacular Saguenay fjord. The rock formations of Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivi?re-Malbaie park provide superb views and recreational options for outdoor enthusiasts. If you want to hike, trek, boat, bike or climb, Charlevoix is one of the best areas not just in Quebec, but in North America. The landscape is wild, relatively free of development and people here are a hearty and exuberant lot.

Pristine architecture in Charlevoix

Of course, when you get hungry, Charlevoix is a good place to be. Montreal is the most famous destination in Quebec for cuisine, with Quebec City second. Charlevoix however, is the province’s diminutive gem. The area has a number of notable restaurants, from the Relais & Ch?teaux La Pinsonni?re in La Malbaie, to Les Saveurs Oubliees (or “forgotten flavors”), where owner Guy Thibodeau serves Charlevoix lamb from nose to tail. If you want to catch the best of the best in Charlevoix, pick up the Circuit de la Route des Saveurs (or The Flavour Trail guide) at a local tourist office. The map and handbook, a pioneer in Canada, will point you to every delicious morsel Charlevoix has to offer.

Care to visit majestic Charlevoix? Check out some great hotel deals in the jewel of Quebec first.

Baie Saint-Paul village, Charlevoix

Photo credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

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