Take away Strasbourg, the jewel of a city in Alsace, and the region is still one of the most phenomenal places in Europe, let alone France. Small yet so relevant in terms of history, agriculture, politics and commerce, Alsace is on the west bank of the Rhine river near both Germany and Switzerland. Geography then, in many ways, is precisely what makes the region so special and a veritable goldmine of peerless culture.

For pure Alsatian charm, towns like Saverne, Obernai and Guebwiller are sublime, as are small communes like Marmoutier, Neuf-Brisach and Wissembourg. The Alsace Wine Route, or Route des Vins d’Alsace, is an absolute must of course and perhaps the best reason to rent a car in France. For mountain peaks, from the Massif du Donon to the Ballon d’Alsace, and national parks, the region is terrific. But quintessential Alsace and indeed, the very heart of the region, is in nowhere else but Strasbourg.

The economic, political and cultural focal point of Alsace is the only big city in the region, yet in some respects, has the feel of a small town. The annual Christmas market and numerous folk festivals held throughout the year certainly belie the size of the city.

Yet for all the small town appeal, Strasbourg makes the top ten in France in terms of metropolitan population. Over 700,000 people call the city home and as a pre-eminent seat of such institutions as the Council of Europe and European Parliament, the capital of Alsace and the Bas-Rhin department is vital.

Strasbourg has a long history, even by European standards. In 1988, celebrations all over the city marked 2,000 years of unbroken settlement in Strasbourg, a notable achievement indeed. UNESCO World Heritage status honors that history, with specific designation for the Grande Ile (or Big Island).

The historic pulse point of Strasbourg is photogenic to the extreme, with a fabulous network of monuments spread out quite neatly in a relatively small area. The city’s main cathedral, four ancient churches and the Palais Rohan – once a grand royal estate – provide modern Strasbourg with a genuine and intact medieval town. With all the inherent characteristics there for visitors to enjoy, old Strasbourg chronicles the city’s development from the 15th to the 18th century.

St. Thomas, St. Pierre-le-Vieux, St. Pierre-le-Jeune and St. Étienne are the four ancient churches specifically cited by UNESCO. They provide Strasbourg’s Grande Ile with much to see. St. Thomas Church in particular has a fascinating history and was built between 1196 and 1521, believe it or not.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg is worth more than a cursory glance. Though some features reveal Romanesque architecture, the cathedral is nonetheless a classic late Gothic masterpiece. One of the best in fact, with roots that go back to the late 12th century. For well over two hundred years until 1874, Strasbourg’s cathedral was the tallest structure in the entire world. On a clear day, the grand spire can be seen from the Black Forest on the other side of the Rhine. Try to time your visit for 12h30, when the cathedral’s incredible astronomical clock comes to life.

Like any good city in Europe, Strasbourg has some wonderful squares where locals gather, mingle and congregate throughout the day and night. Place Kléber is the central square in the city, located on the Grande Ile close to many fine landmarks and monuments. Every December, the city’s fantastic Christkindelsmärik draws up to two million visitors to the square. A massive fir tree, as tall as 30 m, graces Place Kléber every Christmas to signal the start of the holiday season.

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