Estonia has undergone a quasi-tourism revolution of late, with much attention on the political and financial heart of the country. And while the gorgeous capital of Tallinn, with a UNESCO World Heritage Old Town, is a terrific destination to explore, Estonia has a “second city” that deserves some of your time as well.
For many, Tartu, with a bohemian student vibe, is the cool cultural pulsepoint of Estonia. Home to the first university in the country, the oldest town in the Baltic States, with just over 100,000, is a wonderful gem and the type of place you boast about to geographically-deficient friends later on. Picturesque, neat and tidy, Tartu offers would-be photographers with under-the-radar beauty to capture for that online album. Just be sure to have enough memory on that digital camera.
Here’s a handy little guide to keep you in good stead when you venture to the jewel of southern Estonia, 186 km southeast of Tallinn.
This spectacular facility of higher education is the de facto national university of Estonia. Established by the King of Sweden in 1632, when the Swedish Empire effectively ruled much of northern Europe, the institution is spread out in and around Tartu. Most of the architecturally relevant buildings are open to the general public, with over 31 in the city proper to explore. The university’s Botanical Gardens are particularly popular and the classical design of the school’s Main Building is indelible.
Photo by Andrea Paraggio
The historic main theatre of Tartu is a landmark symbol of the city. Founded in 1870, the facility has been a lynchpin in Estonia’s arts and culture scene. With numerous restorations done over the years because of fire damage, first at the turn of the last century and then again in World War II, and necessary expansions, the Vanemuine now shares space between an older “little house” and a decidedly modern “big house”. For opera, ballet, drama, musicals and orchestral performances, this theatre is one of the best.
Catherine’s House and Tartu Art Museum
A magnificent palace built for a wealthy merchant family, Catherine’s House is a supreme landmark in Tartu. The name derives from a popular urban legend that Empress Catherine II once stayed here for a brief time. Not true however, yet the name has stuck. Thankfully, the fabulous estate, built in 1790, is for the most part open to visitors. As home of the Tartu City Museum since 2001, locals and tourists alike have unprecedented access to the opulent manor.
Another cultural landmark of note in the city is the Tartu Art Museum. The collection is housed in what appears to be a perilously leaning edifice. Beautiful to look at from the safety of the cobblestoned street, understandably, some have reservations about stepping inside.
While it may sound odd to recommend a restaurant as a tourist attraction, in this case, the destination is very unique. Gunpowder Cellar was carved into a hillside as part of a bishop’s citadel in the late 18th century. Today a restaurant and bar of the same name owns the space, which all in all, provides a remarkably different kind of experience for a night out on the town.
Tartu has about a dozen wonderful churches from various eras but the one that stands head and shoulders above them all is St. John’s Lutheran. Built as a nave basilica in the early 1300’s, the reconstructed classical landmark’s history is indeed, a parallel to the history of Estonia and Northern Europe. Damaged in the Great Nordic War of the early 18th century and again in World War II, today St. John’s Lutheran has been painstakingly restored to display all the inherent charms of the church. From friezes to terracotta sculptures, the church is almost peerless in the region.
Proof that Tartu plays a vital role in the national machinery of Estonia, the Supreme Court is a notable landmark on the skyline. Believe it or not, this grand structure was once a military barracks. In fact, when it was built in 1763, the original intent was to house prisoners. Later, the Supreme Court was a hospital, a role it held for over 190 years. Since the national court came back to Tartu, the Supreme Court has been a phenomenal symbol of the city’s re-emergence out of the post Soviet-Cold War era.
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