The tiny provincial territory of Genoa is next on our exploration of the Italian Riviera. With the wonderful capital city of the same name, what the province lacks in size, it more than makes up for in history, beauty and some of the most indelible landmarks in the entire Ligurian region.
When people speak with grandiose affection for Italy and heap hyperbole on the country’s charm, culture, food and contribution to the arts, when you read between the lines the references usually apply to Genoa. This illustrious city on the Italian Riviera encompasses all of Italy’s best features into one lovely package.
With over 600,000 people, Genoa is the only quasi-metropolis on the Ligurian coast. Still, the city is rife with Old World village charm, despite the numbers. The ancient seaport dates back thousands of years, with settlements and military incursions by the Celts, Greeks, Etruscans, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Goths and of course, Romans. Throughout the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, Genoa was one of the most powerful and vibrant city states in what has become modern Italy. Indeed, the long and diverse history of the city reveals the obvious geographic advantages it had on the Gulf of Genoa coast. Add it all together and the opportunity Genoa offers today as a field of study and tourism destination is priceless.
Several days are necessary if you want to enjoy Genoa at a leisurely pace. The old city of course, makes for a wonderful stroll. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2006, the historic ‘hood boasts a number of Palazzo or old merchant palaces, that now serve as museums and attractions of note. Palazzo Reale, Bianco, Grimaldi, Rosso and del Principe are the most popular and prominent. The Musei di Strada Nuova on remarkable Via Garibaldi is one of the best art colleges in Europe and reveals Genoa’s place as a world class university town.
Once outside the heart of the old city, the attractions persist. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo and Museum of World Cultures, in a Gothic castle that was once the extravagant domicile of explorer Enrico Alberto d’Albertis, are both worth a special trip. Pencil in the Old Harbor, scenic Boccadasse area and Staglieno cemetery in your Genoa itinerary as well. They all offer a supreme abundance of sights and landmarks of interest that could very well occupy an entire afternoon.
As always in Italy, but particularly in Genoa, sample as much of the regional cuisine and wine as you possibly can. Look out for quiet, side street trattoria that serve up dishes like foccace, torta salate (vegetable and cheese tart), pansotti (jumbo ravioli) in walnut sauce and lamb stew with artichokes. Of course, this being a city on the Mediterranean coast, seafood and fish abound. Genoa is famous for pastry as well, so save room for dessert.
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Once you stumble out of Genoa, drunk, full, probably in sensorial overload mode, you might want to head to a sleepy little village down the coastline. Camogli could be exactly what you need. The town name has a few translations but one of them means “houses close together”. That pretty much sums up the main feature of Camogli, which only has about 5,000 people. If you want a typical Italian Riviera fishing village with good, simple cuisine and minimal appeals to mass tourism, this is it.
Rest and relaxation in Camogli will prime you for Portofino, one of the most famous resorts on the Riviera, if not Italy. Scores of tourists are drawn to the town every summer for the pristine views, postcard perfect hillside backdrop and pastel waterfront.
In fact, the town is so pretty and iconic that it inspires imitators in droves, from Tokyo Disney to Las Vegas. A playground of sorts for the wealthy, with yachts and expat villas everywhere, the restaurants and caf?s along the water are too seductive to pass up.
The commune of Rapallo, home to over 30,000 people, is on the Gulf of Tigullio just up from Portofino. Greek or Etruscan settlement dates back to the 8th century B.C. and for much of Rapallo’s history, the town was under the domain of Genoa. Today the town attracts tourists to a picturesque coastline and mild, agreeable weather, all year around. Indeed, Rapallo is a popular winter home destination for wealthy Italians who can afford a second residence. The town has a number of extraordinarily well-preserved cathedrals, castles and palaces, some of which date back to the 12th century.
Plan ahead with some superb rates on Italian Riviera hotels before you visit.
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