A snippet of conversation overheard in a train compartment on the way to Nice from Genoa, between two college girls from Florida.
“There’s an Italian Riviera? Get out!”
“I’m telling you!”
“Whatever.”
Sigh. Yes Virginia, there is an Italian Riviera. Though not as famous as the Côte d’Azur, that’s probably a point in the Italians favour. Better to be quietly adored than notorious right? Charges of decadence, aristocratic ambivalence and elitism are for the most part, directed at Gallic points on the Mediterranean map. Italy is generally spared the scorn levelled at the likes of Saint-Tropez, Cannes and Monte Carlo.
Not that the Italian Riviera is under the radar. Far from it. The coastal area that runs from the Maritime Alps and Apennines to the Ligurian Sea and from the France-Italy border to Capo Corvo in the Gulf of La Spezia is one of the most popular destinations in Europe. The typical Riviera allure of quaint fishing villages, sleepy Old Towns, beautiful weather and lush resorts tell most of the story.
But not all of it. There’s just something in the air along the Ligurian coastline. An undefinable way of life that inebriates you and compels you to stay longer than originally planned. You can smell it in Cinque Terre. In Portofino. In Sanremo.
And of course in Genoa, the heart of it all. Our guide to the Italian Riviera begins west of Genoa, in the area known as the Riviera di Ponente, which extends from France to the port city.
Italy is a country of regions, first and foremost. One such region is Liguria, home to the Riviera. Liguria in turn, contains four provinces. They are, from France in the west to Capo Corvo in the east: Imperia, Savona, Genoa and La Spezia.
Ventimiglia is the first commune of note once you cross one Riviera to the next, over the France-Italy border. A small, tightly-packed village, a trend that continues throughout the Ligurian coast, Ventimiglia has just over 25,000 people. For over two thousand years, everyone from the Romans to the Byzantines, the Goths to the Genoese played tug-o-war with the little harbour town. The result is a lot of historical attractions for tourists today. Check out the Roman theatre, the caves of Balzi Rossi, the Church of San Michele and the medieval city centre. Remarkably, Ventimiglia also houses the largest Botanical Gardens in all of Italy.
Just down the road from Ventimiglia, is the miniscule commune of Bordighera. At only 10 square km and 10,000 people, it’s easy to miss. People in the know however, covet it like a precious little secret.
The coastal scenery is exquisite and includes a wide variety of flowers and palm trees that the town exports all over the world. With a history that dates back to the 4th century B.C., it’s no surprise that the well-preserved town draws a fair share of European retirees looking for a slice of paradise in their twilight years.
Compared to Ventimiglia and Bordighera, Sanremo is a hectic metropolis. But thankfully, the city of 57,000 is not quite like that in reality. What it is however, is a vibrant town with some of the best weather and cultural events on the Italian Riviera.
Like other coastal settlements in Liguria, Sanremo was long held in dispute and under the dominion of various factions. As a result, the city has a wonderful yarn to spin. Visitors can witness the history firsthand from pristine traces of old village architecture to the cathedrals and grand villas - one of which was the vacation home of Alfred Nobel. Best of all perhaps is that you can taste it in the food, especially the wonderful local olive oil.
The town of Imperia is the capital of the province with the same name. On either side of the River Impero, the town of 40,000 contains two beautifully preserved old sections: Porto Maurizio and Oneglia. They remain two of the most extraordinary examples of Roman settlement and ancient family fiefdoms, with narrow streets that demand exploration. Porto Maurizio is the more posh of the two, with a spate of pastels and wealth within the slender carrugi, or town lanes.
As a functional port on the other hand, Oneglia serves more utilitarian purposes. More modern and industrial, the bulk of tourists stay across the River Impero. Aside from tourism, Imperia subsists largely on flower and olive cultivation to bolster the local economy.
A trip to the Italian Riviera is an absolute must. A source for competitive hotel rates is a prerequisite.
Photo credits: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
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Aside from the Italian Riviera, there are also tourists. Just across from the caves you will find one of Genoa better-known casinos. Overall the way and the Video Slot machines can’t compare to the radar.